Report #13 - February 8 - March 16 2014: George Town to Long Island

Report #13:  February 8, 2014 – March 16, 2014; George Town to Long Island

We spent about 5-6 weeks in George Town.  February was mostly taken up with visits from Edi’s father, Joseph, for a week and then our friends Homer and Kerrie and their two little boys Emett and Emerson. 

Joseph arrived February 13 and we enjoyed a week catching up, showing him George Town, Elizabeth Harbour and how not to fish.  Joseph brought in a lot of boat parts we had ordered with the assistance of Ross and Bev back home (mucho gratias amigos, the boat is better!)  Customs was another story.  We had been told that our Temporary Boat Permit and the set of bills showing the boat part and price was all that was needed.  OK, maybe that works for some but not us.  The customs lady took Joseph’s bills, added them up and says “hand over $750 in customs duties.”  Joseph replies that she has the Temporary Boating Permit and she is unimpressed.  Thankfully Joseph did not have the cash (and cash is the only payment accepted.)  Another cruiser’s visitor gets word back to us at the dinghy dock that Joseph needs bail.  We hop a cab and get to the airport where Joseph is cooling his heels.  I (Blair) leap into action and plead complete and utter ignorance until I determined jail is not a likelihood. 

That accomplished we find that customs forms have to be filled out (forms not available on line and not available anywhere except at a Customs Broker’s office.)  I explained that these parts were almost all boat parts and get no-where except with my request to speak to the supervisor.  He explains that the goods are all to be held until we file proper paper work.  Hmmm, the exemption for boats in transit is not looking very good! I explain I am not leaving here without my goody bag and that perhaps we can go through and separate taxable from non-taxable.  Half an hour later that is accomplished although Mr. Highbourne is unimpressed with the propane control system (over $400) and wants it taxed (at 45% duty!).  I keep working that issue and he finally latches onto a “vital” point that the wiring for it goes to the electrical panel (!?!)  OK!!  However, he tells us that the VHF radio is taxable notwithstanding but since he missed it, never mind (?!?) 

Now, we have items that are taxable (not too much) and we pay the tax there and then (totalling $46).  Everything else is admitted under the TCP.  All done?  Not quite.  He gives us the goods and requires a $300 deposit until we file our paperwork and pay the $11.70 processing fee.  I offer the processing fee up front and he says no go, and makes a call on his cell phone to a customs broker to expect us.  I asked how much this might cost and he hems and haws and advises while he could not say, it might be $150.  I offer to pay a total of $100 in admin fees/processing fees and wrap it up there and then but he doesn’t bite.  Well, muck raker that I am I ask the cabbie to take us to another customs broker, Naaman Forbes (Forbes Enterprises.)  Naaman takes all the paper work processes it and after several changes and several attempts, the day Joseph left we paid our processing fee of $11.78 – after making currency changes of Cdn $ figures to Bahamian, after figuring our various catagories etc.  Mr. Forbes reduced his bill to $78 (he was very ticked with the lady at the customs office having him redo items and especially a few of the tariff categories and some of his own errors.)  Naaman said there was a new sheriff in town and up to last year all of this was done rather informally without any paperwork other than the TCP.  He said many tourists just pay whatever tax is charged and the initial $750 tax demand was the highest tariff category applied to everything.  Times are tough and the government is out to collect money trickling down to all the local offices.  So, $46 tax, $11.78 processing fee under TCP and a $78 customs broker’s bill.  All in all, no problem mon.

A week later, Homer and Kerrie were bringing in a radar cable and a custom radar mount from Stainless Outfitters back home and  some brass shim stock and an easy out set (Kerrie rocks in finding and getting the last two on 24 hours request – AWESOME!) and I am ready.  Homer produces bills and the TCP and the process gets started.  However, two screaming children (thanks boys!) and a loaded diaper (way to go Emett!!!) and the baggage guy says a few words and gives a few glares and gets the whole family (and my parts) past customs sans paperwork! 

Edi had a great visit with her dad and showed him George Town and volleyball beach and the Atlantic ocean beach.  We have heard the winter isn't letting up so here is your mini-beach holiday - ENJOY!

This is the Atlantic Beach, just a very short walk from the beach beside St. Francis resort on Stocking Island and just down from the Chat N Chill.  They went to the Monument and got some great pictures (that day Blair worked on the rudder – it is just fine now!)  We tried fishing and took a run out on the Sound for a day but no luck at all.  We anchored one night all on our own with Joseph at Mariah Harbour Cay about 200 feet off our own private beach (mostly disappears at high tide but at low tide it is incredible.)  Incredibly a week flew past and Joseph was off and Homer and Kerry  arrived.

Edi's dad, Joseph



Edi & Joseph

Joseph at the Blue Hole by Kevali House NO FISHING!!!

fish at the Blue hole, Joseph thinking "where's the fishing rod"

Top of Monument

the Monument - it is an aid to navigation

View from Monument over Monument beach anchorage

Joseph and Kate (Just Desserts)

I thought YOU were bringing the bait!

Go Leafs!!!

Fishing is hard work

I think I had a bite!

 

 

Homer and Kerrie rented a fantastic 2 bedroom semi from Charlie Rolle, located about 6 miles south of George Town at the foot of Man O War Cay.  WOW.  It was beautifully located with a little beach for the kids and new kayaks etc.  We spent about 3 full days with them and about 5 ½ days.  We also had a sleep over on the boat with everyone – Edi agrees we need a bigger boat!  We showed them the Chat N Chill, Volleyball beach and the Atlantic ocean beach and then it was back to their rental and we anchored nearby in the Red Shanks anchorage.  10 days flew by and they were gone.

rake and scrape dance floor - Kerrie, Emerson, Emett & Homer

Emerson and his Shadow

Frank family & rental house behind

View right across from house, low tide

Bahama Momma!!

The George Town Cruisers Rally was fun with lots of activities and games and parties (well, any excuse for a party works around here!)  Races (big boats, dinghies, model boats etc), baseball and volleyball tournaments, coconut tosses and gatherings.

Regatta opening Party, food, music

our rapping bartender Duane Deveaux

Best thing is locals and cruisers always hanging together

Frank and Kate (Just Desserts)

Pat & George (Theodore)

Blair & Franklin

Coconut gathering  - winning boat got over 100!

We also got the radar off the mast with help from George (Theodore) and Frank (Just Desserts) and are ready to remount it on the radar arch (really, the name might have given me a clue!)   However, the problem seems to be with the scanner itself and so we will send it in to Raymarine when we reach Puerto Rico (UPS is over $300 from Bahamas and is only $100 from Puerto Rico – and no customs problems either – Bahamas would have charged duty on the invoice from Raymarine to fix it!)

Frank and George - uh, guys, PLEASE let me down!!

 

While in George Town, we met up with old friends:  Alain & Manon (Nauticus), Lance L’Eau Pierre & Nathalie), Anne (Krazy Lady), Dave & Rose (Cloud 9), Kate and Frank (Just Desserts), Pat& George (Theodore), Brian & Leslie (Afeica), Mary & Shane & Franklin (Sea Change), Arne & Bev (Scandia), Wilma & Barrie (Syrena), Linda & Mark (Rocinante), George & Joanne (Bristol Cream), Bill & Donna (Moonraker), Gail & Gabe Farkas (Sea Wolf) and many more.  We also ran into George and Kim (CS’Ta Time) and Gil & Diana (Serenada) from Hawkestone and they have leap frogged us and are well south now.  No doubt we will catch them up again down the road.  LOTS& LOTS of new friends made especially through ARG (the alcohol research group which holds regular symposiums on Hamburger Beach), our boat card holder is bulging. 

 George Town pictures:

  

Edi and Franklin (and the Valentine's Day cards he made for us) - we will MISS you Buddy!!

  

 

View at sunset off our port - moon rising

AND same time...

 

View off our starboard of sun setting

  

giving the hull a haircut

 

Just Desserts - 42 Whitby - Frank & Kate's boat

 

We had a sad parting in February with Alain & Manon, our first friends to be turning and heading north (but not the last.)  Manon had been very sad to be having to head home, their one year break from work not long enough.  No more though, Manon is now eager to get home as her daughter has just announced she is pregnant (we met their daughter and her fiancé at Big Majors and their son and his girlfriend in George Town.)  Grandmere Manon & Grandpere Alain!  The pregnancy was announced by their daughter sending a package with three t-shirts (one each for Alain and Manon and a tiny t-shirt all with “Nauticus” on it) and the letter stating a new crew member would be arriving.   

One night we looked after Franklin to give Mary and Shane (Sea Change) an evening to themselves.  Franklin (age 4 ½) is a typical boat kid, a great self-confident personality.  Franklin is just a great kid and it is obvious Mary and Shane are great parents.  Shane is from Australia and has lived in Minneapolis area for about 18 years.  Mary is native Minneapolis and they are relocating to Brisbane, Australia (Shane’s home port) with their son Franklin via their 34’ Pacific Seacraft. 

 

The following week after Homer and Kerrie left was spent doing all our chores:  laundry, diesel, water, gas, propane, filling the freezer and filling the pantry.  Engine jobs done:  engine and transmission oil changed, the primary and secondary fuel filters changed, the alternator belt changed. 

boat jobs tend to spread EVERYWHERE

one VERY dirty primary fuel filter

We had planned to go with the Long Island Rally which sailed March 7, however, events occurred March 6. 

S/V Raven out of Rhode Island, a 47’ Vagabond sailboat hit the reefs about 4pm at the north entrance to the harbour about 2 hours before low tide.  Yes, before. A number of cruisers responded and I rode out with Elvis on the water taxi.  It was heart-wrenching to see.  As the tide fell, the hull was clearly visible and the boat was thrown back and forth from starboard to port.  Finally an anchor was tied off on a line and tided to a halyard but unfortunately after being set and reset a number of times the halyard jammed in the sheeve and the boat still had too much slack in the line.  Later, I dinghied supplies out to Raven with others and a concerted effort was made to get bilge pumps going and Honda 2000 generators powering. 

The skipper, Gary, had tried to use the raw water intake as a bilge pump but unfortunately had turned the engine off when working on cutting the hose and the engine’s starter was drenched.  I helped keep the intake of a high capacity hose clear of all the paper, debris etc but after two divers were in the water and reported it seemed Raven might not make it.  The 12v small engine driven high capacity pump did start to keep up though and later the boat was beached on Hamburger Beach and the next afternoon arrangements were made to tow Raven to the boatyard near Red Shanks and be lifted out. 

There was to be no good ending though, because as the lift started getting Raven out of the water the cable snapped and Raven dropped down and again slammed the bottom.  Boat US’s adjuster flew into George Town the next morning and pronounced Raven a right-off.  Gary held a wake at the Peace and Plenty Hotel that afternoon and stood a round of drinks for all who had tried to help him save Raven.  The boat was truly a good old boat and Gary had spent a number of years improving and updating the boat.  I could imagine how he felt and he agreed that it wasn’t just a boat, it had represented a great deal of himself and his dreams.  Gary will be looking for a new boat and he will carry on.  Edi and I wish him well.

sv Raven, in slings after cable rerun

 

 

 

 

 

 

hull damage

 

 

mast bent above spreaders due to load from anchor run from halyard



Captain Gary at the wake for sv Raven - a class act

So, it was a few more days and just in front of an approaching cold front that we sailed to Long Island.  We motored into the wind for about 2 hours to the Hog Cay Cut and then flew our sails on a 60-90 degree reach all the way to Long Island doing about 5.5 knots in 12-15 knots of wind.  It was wonderful to be on the road again and sailing!  Just after we set sails we noticed a dolphin several times appear beside us and then disappear.  I got up to get a closer look and realized the fella was up in the pole position right in front of the bow and swimming like crazy!  I guess he dropped back a couple of times to let us know we had company and to make sure we were catching the show!  AMAZING!  This is my attempt to video him. 

Dolphin swimming in front of our bow

After a mile or two, he cut a hard 90 degrees to starboard and the show was over.  Ole!!

When we reached Thompson Bay, Long Island the welcoming committee was out – another dolphin met us and swam around us for about 15 minutes until we reached the anchorage, repeatedly turning on his side so an eye was up looking at us on deck.  They really do roll and look at us.  Looking at them looking at us, I swear they have an intelligence, are playing and having fun and that they really are interested in us. 

We visited Long Island Breeze, a restaurant/bar/hotel which serves as cruiser central.  Mike, the owner, runs the morning net on VHF CH 18 every morning.  We walked up to KB’s and shopped at the farmers’ market at the Batelco tower.  We got ice cream at Hardings Supplies and attended the Tourist Office’s party for the Winter Residents when Mike asked them to extend the invitation to the cruisers.  Well, good timing because dinner was served and there was an open bar!  The food was wonderful and we met some locals and some “Winter Residents” some who actually are there full-time.  The occasion was a marketing idea to leverage the winter residents for leads etc but there was very little business and a lot of fun.  There was a “rake and scrape” trio and we had a wonderful evening. 

ant hill

Long  Island Breeze
 

Boys in Blue -  mandatory when cruisers are in the crowd!!

We are now about 10 miles north, in Alligator Bay.  Provided Chris Parker gives the OK, we intend to make for Conception Island tomorrow, another National Park with magnificent coral reefs.

2732.3 NM / 3141.9 STM / 5180.6 KM  under the hull

March 16, 2014 at anchor, Alligator Bay, Long Island; 7 months out

Edi & Blair, s/v Kind of Magic, clear